New England

Captain Caleb Godfrey House // c.1740

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In Newport, Rhode Island, you can find that even the more regular-looking historic buildings often hold an interesting (and sometimes troubling) past. Little information was available on this Georgian-era house, but I did some digging and turned up a lot. Rhode Island and Newport specifically had been a hub of trade going back to its founding by white settlers. Even though it was the smallest of the colonies, the great majority of slave ships leaving British North America came from Rhode Island ports. Historian Christy Clark-Pujara, in her book Dark Work, The Business of Slavery in Rhode Island, indicates that during “the colonial period in total, Rhode Island sent 514 slave ships to the coast of West Africa, while the rest of the colonies sent just 189.” Captain Caleb Godfrey, who owned this home on Franklin Street in Newport, was a sea captain and hired by wealthy merchants to pick up slaves in West Africa and bring them back to the British colonies. In 1754, Samuel and William Vernon of Newport hired Caleb to take their ship, “Hare“, taking captives from Sierra Leone and embarking them from South Carolina. Godfrey left Sierra Leone with 84 slaves aboard, but 16 died on the 10-week voyage or soon after the ship arrived in Charleston, their bodies were dumped at night into the sea. In South Carolina, a prominent slave dealer named Henry Laurens handled the sale of African captives from the Hare, placing an advertisement to attract the attention of local rice planters. Godfrey’s Newport home is a visual reminder on New England’s direct ties to the enslavement of African people and how the colonies benefited financially from this terrible trade.

Newport Old Fire Station No.1 // 1885

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Central Newport, Rhode Island is best-known for its Colonial and early 19th century architecture, so when a Victorian-era building is spotted, it always stands out! This ornate building was constructed in 1885 as one of a half-dozen fire stations in Newport. This fire station housed one of the nation’s first organized fire companies known as Old Torrent No. 1. It was home to Newport’s first horse drawn steam engine until the steamers were replaced with motor-driven equipment in 1913. Unfortunately, these early model fire trucks weren’t designed to handle the steep incline of Mill Street. So, after 29 years of service, the station was closed and the horses, steamer, and the building were sold in 1915. The building saw numerous uses and deferred maintenance until 1991, when it was restored by local residents. Today, the one-of-a-kind features include original brass fire pole, private roof deck, and a 65 foot lookout tower with views of the Newport Harbor in the distance. It recently sold in 2022 for over $3 Million and is a residence!

West-Hathaway House // c.1800

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Located on Mill Street, overlooking Queen Anne Square, the West-Hathaway House is one of the most charming Federal period houses in Newport, but it didn’t always call this city “home”! Believe it or not, this five-bay Federal style house was originally built in Tiverton, Rhode Island around 1800 and relocated to Newport about fifty years ago. The house was built by Samuel West (1774-1838), of a line of physicians, and later sold to Samuel Hathaway. The house was located on large farmland presently occupied by the Pardon Gray Preserve in Tiverton but was later donated to the Newport Preservation Foundation in 1977 by the owners who likely hoped to redevelop the area where this house sat. The West-Hathaway House was dismantled, moved, and reassembled on this site that same year!

Newport Telephone Building // c.1897

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Before the days of virtual meetings, texting, and calls by cellphone, residents of towns and cities all over New England needed central telephone exchanges to connect them to those who they were trying to reach. Telephone exchange buildings were typically located in downtown areas and were often architectural statement-pieces by telephone companies. This example in Newport, Rhode Island, is located just behind Trinity Church and was designed around 1897 by the firm of Perkins & Betton of Boston. The building is constructed of brick (now painted) with terracotta trim details, which really pop. The oversized Palladian window with arch, pilasters, and cornice are all terracotta installed by the Waldo Brothers, contractors. The building was converted to residential use and was sold for $2.5 Million in 2020.

Trinity Church, Newport // 1725

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Trinity Church in Newport, Rhode Island is one of the largest extant 18th century churches in New England, and founded in 1698, it is the oldest Episcopal parish in the state. Built in 1725, the Georgian style church was built just as the influence of Sir Christopher Wren’s churches reached the colonies, about a quarter century after his work had come to dominate ecclesiastical design in London. Trinity is the second major church built in the original colonies influenced by Wren, following Old North Church in Boston’s North End (1723). Stylistically, both churches are similar, with the notable difference in material (Old North in brick and Trinity Church in clapboard). Local builder Richard Munday, is credited with the design of Trinity Church. By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, many members of the Vanderbilt family and other wealthy residents attended sermons here when summering in Newport. When Newport was undergoing Urban Renewal in the mid-20th century, Queen Anne Square (the park which fronts the church) was created in the 1970s to establish a town common in a city which had never truly had one. “Early” buildings in the area to be bulldozed for the common were moved to other sites to enhance the “colonial” rehabilitation of the area around the harbor, making this one of the few examples of urban renewal having a positive impact on a city.

Yale University – Warner House // 1887

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Originally known as Cloister Hall, this ornate building on Hillhouse Avenue in New Haven, Connecticut is one of the most interesting I have seen. The building was constructed in 1887-8 as a residence hall for members of the Book and Snake, a secret society at Yale University. Architect H. Edwards Ficken designed the ornate brownstone Cloister which was completed in 1888. At the time, it was considered “one of the most picturesque buildings on the Yale campus.” The society added a matching rear addition in 1915, which is a heavier mass, but compliments the original structure. Yale University would eventually acquire the building after the society no longer needed a separate lodging house for members. Today, the building is called Warner House, and Yale does a great job at maintaining this beauty.

Yale University – Alpha Delta Phi Hall // 1895

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Completed in 1895 for the Alpha Delta Phi fraternity at Yale, this stunning example of the Richardsonian Romanesque style on Hillhouse Avenue was such a treat to see in person. This building was designed by local architect William H. Allen who designed the building to provide student members dining and socialization space, but no dormitories. The group was active as a Junior Society, but disbanded by 1930, and the building was sold to Yale University. Yale has since occupied the building with the Morris Steinert Collection of Musical Instruments and it recently underwent a restoration. The longer I look at the building, the more amazing details I can find. The proportion of the Syrian arch with squat engaged columns is really remarkable.

St. Mary’s Roman Catholic Church Priory // 1907

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Located next to the St. Mary’s Roman Catholic Church on Hillhouse Avenue in New Haven, Connecticut, you will find one of the finest Neo-Gothic style buildings in the city that was not built by Yale University. This structure was constructed in 1907 as the Priory for the Catholic Church next door. Historically, the church had been under the care of the Dominican friars of the Province of St. Joseph, based in New York City, and the church needed a residence for the friars (a Priory). Due to dwindling attendance at churches all over the country, area churches were consolidated under the Hartford Archdiocese, who replaced the friar residents of this building with Dioscesan priests in late 2021.

St. Mary’s Roman Catholic Church // 1870

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The second oldest Roman Catholic parish in Connecticut can be found in New Haven, at the St. Mary’s Roman Catholic Church. The parish was originally established in 1832, largely by Irish immigrants who settled in the area for work. The current St. Mary’s church building, located on Hillhouse Avenue near Yale University, was designed in 1870 by ecclesiastical architect James Murphy, and it was dedicated in 1874. The construction of a Catholic church on Hillhouse Avenue was strongly opposed by the Protestant elite who lived in the area, but the congregation prevailed. The Victorian Gothic style church is constructed of local blue stone and granite and while plans by Murphy originally included a corner spire for the building, it was not built until 1982 when the building was restored courtesy of the Knights of Columbus. The Knights of Columbus fraternal organization was actually founded in 1882 in New Haven by Father Michael J. McGivney, who originally held meetings in the basement of this church.

Yale University – Kirtland Hall // 1902

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Yale has such great architecture. Walking around the campus, you can find examples of buildings of every time period and architectural style, it is like a living museum of architecture in that sense. Located on Hillhouse Avenue, Kirtland Hall is arguably Yale’s best example of Beaux Arts/Neo-Classical architecture, but it stands out for its use of local East Haven and Longmeadow sandstone. The building was the first laboratory to be built at Yale in the 20th century and was named after Jared Potter Kirtland (1793-1877), the first medical student enrolled at Yale. After graduation, Dr. Kirtland practiced medicine throughout Connecticut until 1823, when his wife died and he moved to Ohio. During his life, Dr. Kirtland also developed an interest in natural history and assisted in the first geographical survey of Ohio. In the early 20th century, Lucy Hall Boardman, a philanthropist and niece of Dr. Kirtland, not only donated funds for scholarships at Yale, but also donated a building, Kirtland Hall. As part of her gift, Ms. Boardman stipulated that her nephew, architect Kirtland Cutter, would be commissioned to design the building, and of course, Yale obliged. The building originally housed the Geology Department and became an integral part of the Sheffield Scientific School.